Sewing machine



March 1U, 1936.

A. BATES SEWING MACHINE 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Original Filed July 20, 1932 ar w, 1936.

A. BATES [SEWING MACHINE Original Filed July 20, 1932 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Mar. 10, 1936 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE SEWING MACHINE Original application July 20, 1932, Serial No. 623,499. Divided and this application June 1,

1935, Serial No. 24,535.

August 1, 1931 In Great Britain '1 Claims. (01. 12-6)" This invention is concerned with sewing machines, and more particularly with machines for sewing of veldtschoen or other forms of stitchdown footwear. Such a machine is illustrated and described in the co-pending application for U. S. patent Serial No. 623,499, of which the present application is a division.

The object of the invention is to provide improved means for sewing by machine the uppers of veldtschoen to their soles in cases where the upper is not fully, if at all, lasted and, during the sewing operation, it is required to bring the outwardly turned margin of upper snugly into! the angle formed by a last and the projecting :margin of the shoe sole thereon and to bed the upper on to said margin to be secured there by the stitching.

The several features of the invention will become fully evident to those skilled in the art from a consideration of the following illustrative description, given by way of example and with reference to the accompany drawings of additions and changes which may be made to a curved hooked needle stitching machine of the 5 type described in the patent to French and Meyer No. 473,870 dated April 26, 1892, in adapting such a machine for producing two parallel lines of stitching at the same time, and of convenient means for assisting when applying such 3093a machine to sewing veldtschoen in certain 'ways.

In the drawings Figure 1 is a side elevation of a curved hooked needle stitching machine embodying the additions and changes referred 35;; to; Figure 2 is a front elevation of part of said machine; Figure 3 is a detail View, to an enlarged scale, illustrating the action of a looper of said machine when placing the needle threads in the hooks of the needles; Figure 4 is a side file-elevation, partly in section, of a shoe upper pulling device and part of its operating mechanism of said machine; Figure 5 is a side elevation, partly in section of a further part of said operating mechanism; Figure 6 is a perspective 45; view, partly in section, illustrating .the seam formed by the said machine; and Figure 7 is a plan view of the toe portion of a shoe illustrating the seam as it appears in a completed shoe.

In the illustrative case, the needle segment of the machine has fixed in it directly in front of the usual needle 2 a second similar needle 4. The needles which are concentric and in the same plane are spaced apart a distance accord- 55; mg to the desired distance apart of the lines of than in machines of this type when arranged to form a-single seam, so as to adequately support the needles while they pierce the work, and to accurately position them for the looping of the threads round the needles. The work support It hasformed in it a second slot through which the front needle 4 passes. This second slot is in front of and parallel to the usual slot through which the rear needle 2 passes. The awl segment has fixed in it directly in front of the usual awl l2, a second awl M. The looper 6 is operated to lay the needle threads in the hooks of the needles by mechanism similar to that shown in the aforementioned patent to French and Meyer.

The-relative movements of the thread handling elements of a machine are organized and operated in the manner explained in the application above referred to, to produce two parallel lines of stitching substantially the same as those described in the French and Meyer patent, the two needle threads being laid in the hooks of the needles and two needle thread loops being drawn up through the work together; Two parallel rows of stitching, l6, [8 (Figures 6 and '7) of conventional appearance are formed by the machine on the lower side of the work, while the shuttle thread appears on the upper surface of the work when being sewn (the lower surface in wear) as a zig-zag line of stitching. This unconventional appearance of the seam on What will be the lower surface of the shoe in wear is wholly immaterial where as is common with some classes of veldtschoen the stitched shoe has a wearing tread surface (as for instance of crepe rubber) cemented thereto subsequently to the stitching.

To use a machine having the characteristics as above described for lasting (more or less) and stitching sandals or veldtschoen in which an upper and a sole are assembled on a last and the outturned margin of the upper, and it may be a rand, is stitched to the margin of the sole, the right-hand end face, viewing the machine from the front, of the work support I!) is preferably made vertical, as shown in Figure 2, and as close as possible to the right-hand end of the needle slots and the metal of the support the machine.

behind the rearward of the slots and in front of the forward one of the slots is as thin as possible and the machine provided with a device 28 spaced from the work support for bedding the upper into the angle or crease between the sole margin and the last (and if desired supplying a rand strip there) substantially similar to and operated in the same manner as the de-- vice shown in the patent to Ricks No. 1,321,148 dated November 11, 1919. The machine is also preferably provided with a sole straightening tool 22 such as is disclosed in said Ricks patent.

The machine, when adapted for lasting and stitching sandals or veldtschoen as referred to, may be provided with means by which the upper may be intermittently pulled to its last and over the work support just before the awls enter the work and the feed takes place. Such means may conveniently comprise a foot 24 (Figure 4) having on its upper surface teeth which are adapted to engage the margin of the upper in the angle or crease formed between the sole margin and the last.

The foot engages the margin of the upper, in

the machine of the present invention between the right hand end or edge of the work support I0 and the left hand end or edge of the bedding member 20, hereinbefore referred to, and is moved first upwardly to engage the upper and press it against the sole margin into the angle or crease between the sole and last, then rearwardly to pull the upper frictionally over the sole margin snugly to the last, then downwardly away from the upper and finally forwardly.

'When the foot is pressed up against the margin of the upper and after it has pulled the upper, the awls enter the work and the feed takes place, the foot moving with the awls in their feeding movement and assisting the awls in feeding the .work. When the foot is moved upwardly into engagement with the upper, it is given a component of forward movement so that it enters well into the crease between the sole margin and the last.

The foot 24 is preferably formed on or fixed to the forward end of an upwardly and rearwardly extending lever 26. The lever 26 about midway of its length and therefore above and behind the foot is pivoted to the upper end of a substantially vertical link 28 by a pivot 38 extending across the machine. The vertical link 28 is pivoted at its lower end to the feed slide 32 of the machine on an eccentric portion of a horizontal adjustable pivot 34 extending across The rear end of the lever 26 is connected by a downwardly and rearwardly extending link 36 to a rearwardly extending link 38. The said downwardly and rearwardly extending link 36 is connected both to the rear ,end of the lever 26 and to the rearwardly extending link 38 by ball connections 48, 42. The rearwardly extending link 38 is connected at its forward end to the vertical link 28 by a ball connection 44 and at its rear end is connected by a universal coupling 46 to the lower end of a substantially vertical cam member 48. The cam member 48 at its upper end has formed in it a square opening 50 which surrounds a cam 52 on the cam shaft 54 of the machine.

" The cam member 48 has pivoted to it, near its lower end but just above the universal connection 46 hereinbefore referred to, the forward end of a rearwardly extending rod 56. The rod 56 near its rear end is reduced in diameter and is slidingly mounted in a sleeve 58 threaded through a block 59 which is pivoted at 68 to a member 6| fixed on a horizontal shaft 52 extending across the machine. The rod at its rear end has on it an adjustable nut 63 and between this nut and the rear end of the sleeve 58 the rod has on it a spring which holds a shoulder 65 on the rod against the front end of the sleeve 58. By adjustment of the sleeve 58 the foot 24 may be adjusted forwardly or rearwardly and the sleeve may be locked in adjusted position by a nut 18 on the sleeve. As the cam member 48 is moved down by its cam, the rear end of the horizontal link 38 is moved down about its ball connection 44 to the vertical foot lever carrying link 28 and moves down the rear end of the foot lever 28. The foot 24 at the front end of the lever 26 is moved upwardly into engagement with the margin of the upper and as it moves upwardly it also, owing to the position of its pivot, moves forwardly so that it enters well into the crease between the projecting sole margin and last. As the upper end of the cam member 48 is moved forwardly by continued rotation of the cam 52, its lower end swings rearwardly about the pivotal connection of the cam member 48 and the rearwardly extending rod 56 and through the rearwardly extending horizontal link 38 swings the vertical foot lever carrying link 28 rearwardly about its pivotal connection to the feed slide 32 to cause the foot 24 to pull the upper. During continued Means is provided whereby the amount of rearward upper pulling movement imparted to the foot 24 may be varied. This means comprises a bar 66 mounted on the feed slide 32 so as to be adjustable forwardly and rearwardly of the machine. The bar passes rearwardly across the left-hand side of slide 32 so as to be adjustable forwardly and rearwardly of the machine. The bar passes rearwardly across the lefthand side of the vertical link 28 and has at its rear end a lateral extension 6! which passes behind the vertical link 28. The front end of the bar has threaded into it a horizontal rearwardly extending adjusting screw 68 which is prevented from endwise movement by a plate 68 fixed to the feed slide 32 and entering a groove on the screw formed between the head of the screw and a flange on the screw. If the bar 66 is so adjusted that the foot 24 does not receive the full rearward or upper pulling movement which could be imparted to it by the cam 52, the vertical link 28, during its rearward movement, is engaged and stopped by the lateral extension 61 on the bar 66 and thereafter the cam member 48 swings about the now stationary universal coupling 46 between the rear end of the horizontal link 38 and the cam member 48 and the spring 64 yields.

The foot may be so operated that after it has been moved up into engagement with the upper and has pulled the upper to the last and over the work support, it may be given a forward movement either in its raised position or after it has been slightly lowered to tuck the upper into the angle or crease between the work support and bedding member.

pierced the work and is therefore holding the pulled upper during the feed, and its purpose is to press that portion of the upper between the work support and bedding member into the angle or crease and raise the upper so as to Such a forward movement preferably occurs after the awl has assist its passage on to the top of the adjacent work support. After the forward movement or the foot, it may then be lowered in readiness to be again raised into engagement with the margin of the upper.

The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated, and an embodiment of the several features of the invention having been specifically described, what is claimed is:-

l. A machine for sewing together a sole and the outturned upper of a shoe on a last having, in combination, stitch forming devices, an upper pulling foot, and means for actuating the foot against the upper margin to press the upper into the crease between the sole and the last and then away from the last to pull the upper frictionally over the sole margin, and snugly against the last during each stitch forming cycle.

2. A machine for sewing together a sole and the outturned upper of a shoe on a last having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a work support to support the projecting sole margin and out-turned margin of the upper, a bedding device at one side of the work support to bed the upper into the crease between the sole margin and the last, an upper pulling foot arranged to engage the upper between the work support and said bedding device, and means for actuating the foot to press the margin of the upper into said crease and then move away from the last to pull the upper frictionally over the sole margin and snugly against the last during each stitch forming cycle.

3. A machine for sewing together a sole and the out-turned upper of a shoe on a last having,

in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices, an upper pulling foot mounted to move with the work in the direction of feed, and means for actuating the foot to press the margin of the upper into the crease between the sole margin and the last and then away from the last to pull the upper frictionally over the sole margin and snugly against the last during each stitch forming cycle.

4. A machine for sewing together a sole and the outturned upper of a shoe on a last having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a feed slide, an upper pulling foot connected to the feed slide to move with the work in the direction of feed, and means for actuating the foot to press the margin of the upper into the crease between the sole margin and the last and then away from the last to pull the upper frictionally over the sole margin and snugly against the last during each stitch forming cycle.

5. A machine for sewing together a sole and the out-turned upper of a shoe on a last having, in combination, stitch forming devices, an upper pulling foot, and means for moving the foot towards the last and into a position to press the margin of the upper into the crease between the sole margin and the last and for then moving the foot away from the last to pull the upper frictionally over the sole margin and snugly against the last during each stitch forming cycle.

6. A machine for sewing together a sole and the out-turned upper of a shoe on a last having, in combination, stitch forming devices, an upper pulling foot, means for actuating the foot to press the margin of the upper into the crease between the sole margin and the last and then move away from the last to pull the upper frictionally over the sole margin and snugly against the last during each stitch forming cycle, and means for adjusting the extent of the pulling movement imparted to the foot.

7. A machine for sewing together a sole and the outturned upper of a shoe on a last having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle, a. work support, a bedding member and an awl for feeding the work, an upper pulling foot between the Work support and bedding member, and means for actuating the foot to pull the margin of the upper along the sole margin away from the last, and as the work is being fed, to press the upper between the work support and bedding tool into the crease between the sole margin and the last.

ARTHUR BATES. 

